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First off, the Garmin unit you have might have maps already. You probably know this, but if you're shopping for a GPS, go to the Garmin website page for the unit. If it maps come with the unit, it will say it has "preloaded topo maps."
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Created by Lattice Training, which was founded by coach Ollie Torr and training expert and crack-climbing aficionado Tom Randall, the Crimpd app features detailed climbing workouts. Want to train power-endurance today? Core? Just looking for a recovery session? Choose your goal and then browse through the list of relevant workout options.
Boulderers can find their projects at major areas such as Big Bend Boulders on River Rd or test their overhanging crack techniques low to the ground at the Crack House. Want to climb a splitter? Areas such as Day Canyon and Longs Canyon have you covered thanks to Maverick Buttress and routes including Brush Painted Datsun.
Few rock climbing styles bring my psyche to 100 like crack climbing in Indian Creek. Straight, parallel-sided cracks without face features offer respite from the consistent, sustained technique required to send. Millimeters of difference in size along my journey up the crack require subtle changes in technique, making for a very cerebral experience. Nowhere can you immerse yourself so fully in this experience, and in such a stacked area, than in Indian Creek, also known as Bears Ears National Monument.
Many folks will want to immediately head to the classics upon their arrival to Indian Creek. The classics are, after all, what makes this location the best in the USA for crack climbing. During my first trip to the Creek, I too wanted the classics. So, I went straight to Supercrack Buttress and sought out Supercrack of the Desert. Turns out, big mistake! I struggled, flailed and thrutched my way up the climb in fear, hanging on every piece. Other beginners, with some foresight, arrived after having spent their first climb top roping and training their crack technique for this area.
When I bring people here for the first time, especially if they have never climbed cracks before, I like to instead take them to areas that are off the beaten path. If you can, reserve three days out of your Indian Creek Trip for taking a crack clinic. I recommend the following short climbs to introduce people new to the rock climbing style.
Before I start, I should note that there are dozens and dozens of topos for the Nose, both online and in guide books. Some are very outdated, some are graded for a free ascent, or a NIAD (Nose in a day), and some have inaccurate information (missing bolts, or bolts that are now missing). Basically, the Nose is a big alpine wall that is changing in small ways all the time, and no one should slavishly study a topo (or this article), and imagine that is exactly what they will find.
You can also do the Jardine Traverse here (5.10c or 5.9 C1 wide), which speeds things up but misses out Camp 1, the Texas and Boot flake, and the King Swing, which are all the highlights of the climb. The Jardine is also tougher than it sounds, and you need some big cams (it has a long wide section that climbs up to where the King swing comes in, which needs monster cams, although this is not mentioned on the topo).
Free climb up and then tackles the horrid slot, going out left to another crack as soon as you can reach it. This leads back into the slot again, but then falls back and leads to greasy scramble up to a blissful Camp 3. Haul from the far left-hand end of the belay, and if in a three-person team, have one climber just the haul line first (on which they might pooh their pants).
This is a steep and horrible belay if your feet are tired. The pitch goes up an amazing crack on small-medium cams, then around a crack (fixed bong), then up a corner (free and aid), to a good belay. These two pitches can be a bottleneck, and last time I was here, we had eight climbers hanging from two bolts here!
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